We will remember them .....

...... a 40 mile walk in honour of the fallen

2nd to 4th October 2007

I am a Police Officer and have been for more years than I care to remember. I am fortunate to work with a fantastic group of people I am proud not only to call colleagues, but friends.

I have been interested in the events leading up to and into D Day 6th June 1944 for over 30 years. It probably all started after watching a film called “The Longest Day” on television. My all time favourite part of that film when I was young was the part involving the capture of Pegasus Bridge. As a 10 year old boy, I never dreamt that I would ever walk in the footsteps of the men depicted in that film, men of D Company, Oxf & Bucks Light Infantry.

It was many years later, when I had a family of my own that I actually got to visit Pegasus Bridge for the first time. I found that it was one thing to watch a war film, but to actually be there, and be old enough to understand what happened, was awesome. I actually began to understand the immensity of what happened, and I am not afraid to say that I had a lump in my throat and a tear in my eye.

That was several years ago, I have been to Pegasus Bridge and other parts of Normandy many times since, but even now, I still get that awestruck feeling when I visit the bridge. Unfortunately, due to work and school commitments, I have never been able to be at the bridge for the anniversary of D Day. I hope to change this in 2008 and be there.

One evening, over a pint, I let it slip to my friends that I was planning to do a charity walk to raise funds and awareness on behalf of the Normandy Veterans, and on behalf of every man and woman that has served our country since. I explained that I was going to walk the 40 odd miles across Normandy. My starting point was going to be from where the gliders of the Coup de Main landed, along the canal to Ouistreham, along Sword Beach, Juno Beach, Gold Beach and ending at Omaha Beach.

I was overwhelmed at the support given to my venture by my colleagues, who instantly offered there help with my venture. Six of my friends offered to accompany me on the walk, Mike Roberts (the namesake of a certain Colonel in the Oxf & Bucks), Ian Sweeney (another surname that rings a bell with the regiment), Liz Rutter, Rich Leek and last but not least Steve Yapp.

I could not have achieved the result that followed without their help.

We are particularly grateful to Brittany Ferries, who were very generous in arranging a much reduced cost ferry and for the Kidderminster Girls & Boys Brigade, who kindly provided us with transport in the form of a minibus.

The Girl's and Boy's Brigade bus

The six of us spent the time leading up to the event raising funds in the form of sponsorship.

The whole event had to be carried out in six days, in our own time, this included our period of days off after a weeks set of shifts and leave days owed to us.

I finished a night shift at 7am on Monday 1st October 2007, I managed to get a few hours sleep before getting up at 1pm and setting off for the RV (Rendezvous Point).

After all meeting up and stowing the gear, we set off for Portsmouth a little after 5pm.

Our ferry was due to leave at 11.15pm that day, it was an overnight ferry. I was hoping to get a little sleep on the way but I have to admit, I was too excited at going back to Normandy. After grabbing something to eat (and drink), we made our way to the ferry and boarded.

We dropped our stuff off in our respective cabins, and promptly made for the bar. We went on deck and waved goodbye to Portsmouth, I was mindful of the many soldiers who waved goodbye to Portsmouth on that day over 60 years ago, some of whom never had the opportunity to see it again. Sombre moment.

Then, like those soldiers, we tried to make the most of our journey and was comforted by the fact that I did not have to worry about being attacked by U Boats, or E Boats, or aircraft or mines as they did. Again, we made for the bar and drank a toast to those men, strangely, the music playing in the bar at that time was 1940’s Glenn Miller.

I was very awake at that time, despite the sleep inducing beverages.

Here we are on the ferry

We made our way to our cabins and played cards for a bit. Again, sitting on the bunks with a group of people playing cards to amuse ourselves, made me think of that day over 60 years ago.

Eventually, everyone drifted to their bunks, including me. The thoughts of what lay ahead kept me awake through the night. No matter how tired I was, I could not sleep. The very loud snoring of one of my mates didn’t help. The ship did not need a mechanical foghorn that night!

We arrived at Ouistreham on schedule. I still hadn’t slept and began to grow concerned. The walk was due to start ASAP Tuesday Morning 2nd October 2007.

It occurred to me then that, if I couldn’t sleep, in a nice safe environment with nobody shooting at me, with only a pleasant walk through the Normandy countryside ahead of me, how on earth did those men manage? My thoughts went to a Normandy veteran in the area I work, Ken, who gave me an account of his landing at Sword Beach on D Day. He told me that he travelled across with a group of Royal Marines. All of them except one did not sleep at all but were generally calm and resigned to whatever fate awaited them. That one man was so desperately afraid that he was crying and sobbing uncontrollably all the way across, certain that he was going to die. Unfortunately, Ken does not know what happened to that man. They didn’t show that in “The Longest Day”!

Day 1

After telling the group that the weather in Normandy in October is very mild, we were greeted by thick fog which thinned out to a dense mist as we got to the bridge.

The start of the walk at Major John Howard's memorial

I pointed out the starting point, by the memorial and the glider landing monuments. We had a brief look around and then made our way to Bernieres sur Mer, which was 13 miles roughly, by foot from the bridge. We set up camp here, then Steve drove back to the bridge and dropped the five of us off, Mike, Ian, Liz, Rich and myself. The original plan was to have a driver, an ex soldier, who unfortunately had to drop out at the last minute due to his wife’s ill health.

The five of us began our walk at mid-day on Tuesday 2nd October 2007. Steve was stopped by a British Tourist at the bridge who asked him what we were doing and promptly donated £20.00 to the pot. A great start.

The weather started to improve as we made our way north along the canal path towards Ouistreham. The same path that Lord Lovatt’s commandos took from Sword Beach to relieve the men at the bridge.

It is about three miles from the bridge to Ouistreham and Sword Beach. We walked onto the beach and followed the beach path all the way along though Colleville Montgomery, Hermanville sur Mer and Lion sur Mer.

Sword Beach - on towards Hermanville

At Lion you have to leave the beach area and follow the road inland slightly to continue along the D514.

The road here is slightly uphill to Luc sur Mer. I had never noticed this before, having done this journey many times in a car, but after six miles already with a Bergen, I developed a new respect for it. Again, my thoughts were with the soldiers who, after landing, had to march many miles heavily laden with the constant threat of snipers or other enemy action.

This put things in perspective, suddenly, the hill did not look so steep.

As we got to the crest of the hill, at the entrance to Luc sur Mer, I was pleased to see Steve with minibus parked at the verge with a brew waiting. What a fantastic thing a mug of tea is. It was here that we had a brush with the law.

Entrance to Luc sur Mer where we met the
French Police, who took kindly this picture

The police turned up and spoke to us. Unfortunately, none of us had that good a grasp of the French language. Then, another police vehicle turned up with a large sergeant. My first thoughts were, “is what we’re doing illegal in France, do they think we are hitch-hikers or something”. Steve, as resourceful as ever, immediately identified himself and us as fellow police officers. We all shook hands in a moment of mutual comradeship. Again, I was reminded of the mutual comradeship of soldiers.

With our French and their English, we understood that they were only trying to warn us about the dangerous cliffs in the area, thinking that we may stray close to the cliff edge.

We continued on then, through Luc sur Mer, through Langrune sur Mer and through St Aubin sur Mer. To tell you that I was overjoyed at seeing the sign for Bernieres sur Mer would be an understatement! It was now getting on for 6pm, I had been awake now for 29 hours! We arrived at the camp site a little before 7pm. The strange thing was, I didn’t feel tired. It is amazing what the human body can cope with if it has to.

By now my feet were a bit sore to say the least. Steve and I disappeared down to the Beach for a swim. This is Juno Beach right by Canada House and the Canadian memorial. We had no swimming costume so we stripped down to our underpants and in we went. Surprisingly, none of the others wanted to join us.

Juno Beach - Steve on bunker WN35

We must have looked a sight to the locals, a couple of blokes stripping down to their shreddies and running into the sea in October! I’m sure I heard a local say something like, “Its OK, they’re English”. That was refreshing. Then it was back to camp, sausage and beans and copious quantities of beer. We drank a few toasts to the brave men who were there over 60 years before us. I went to bed after 11pm and realised how tired I was. I don’t remember anything after that until waking up next morning.

Day 2

Weather much better. Out of Bernieres sur Mer and on into Courseulles sur Mer. We lingered a while at the Sherman DD Tank memorial in Courseulles and then pressed on towards Graye sur Mer along the beach path. The beach is wide and long here, way out in the distance, I could see a large German Blockhouse. The gun located here could easily attack anything on the beach. The path, track would be a better term, is narrow and very difficult to walk in places. We had to do this section single file.

The German bunker, right in between Graye and Ver sur Mer looked massive and ominous, we were walking towards it for what seemed an age and never seemed to get any closer. As we were about half a mile away from it, I saw a solitary figure stranding on the roof. In other times, he could well have been an enemy spotter looking for vulnerable targets on the beach. I was hoping it was Steve, this was our RV point for the day and I was desperate for a brew.

It was Steve, and he had got the kettle on. Another fantastic and very welcome cup of tea. The bunker was known as WN35 when it was part of the Atlantic wall.

We pressed on then towards Ver sur Mer. My thoughts turned to The Green Howards (Yorkshire Regiment), and Company Sgt Major Stan Hollis. CSM Hollis was the only soldier to be awarded the Victoria Cross for his actions on D Day.

Our route took us past another large bunker, formerly known as WN33 on Gold Beach. It is part of a sailing club now but must have been a formidable obstacle on the day.

Gold Beach - 'homage to our liberators'

Out of Ver, we headed towards Asnelles along Gold Beach. The main road, D514, moves inland from the beach by about a half mile because of the natural marshes that run the length of the beach. There is a wonderful path along the beach, along which many remains of the Atlantic Wall can be found. This is in contrast to the beautiful wildlife that can be found in this conservation area. The path through the marshes is about three miles long, we emerged onto the beach at Asnelles and made our way up to a car park where we were confronted by yet another large bunker, WN37.

Gold Beach - vehicle exit point

We continued on along the beach path through Le Hamel and on towards Arromanches. Another bunker, WN36, then onto the beach. The view of the Eastern end of the Mulberry Harbour looks superb from here .

Asnelles sur Ner - small bunker WN36

The shore is rocky here and the tide was in, so we made our way inland along small roads at St Come de Fresne. As we headed inland, we came across a small monument that you could easily miss if in a car or were not diverted inland from the beach by a rsing tide, it was a simple marker indicating that the road was a vehicle access route from the beach and was dedicated to “Our Liberators”. Another lump in the throat moment! We weren’t the first Brits to take this route.

The hills around here are steep, I knew that from my previous visits but I was horrified when I checked my map and saw that the contour lines were very close together. I was hoping it was a printing error. I was disappointed. The French map maker was extremely accurate!

The long walk up the hill to Arromanches

Up the hill from the beach to join the D514. The walk was defineiely worth it. The view from the top of the hill on the cliffs above Arromanches is fantastic, with a grand view of the Mulberry Harbour and the town itself.

Cliffs to east of Arromanches

Down the hill now, into the town. Past a Sherman tank memorial which stands on, yes, another bunker, WN43. Into the town for another well earned drink. They do fantastic Crepes here ( I would recommend the Crepe Grand Marnier!).

Arromanches - bunker WN43

Onwards and forwards again, it suddenly dawned on me that we had a nice walk downhill into Arromanches, which a meant a “nice walk” uphill on the way out. Up the hill out of town, yes, another bunker, WN44 on the western end of town.

The cliffs, west of Arromanches

There is no clear road marked along the cliffs on the map, I can guarantee that there is a path and it is a fantastic walk. For a moment, I forgot that I was in Normandy. I could have been walking along the cliffs in Dorset. Part of the path was little bit “adventurous” and required a bit of climbing/scrambling up and down. The backside of my trousers got muddy several times that day!

The cliff walk was not always easy

The walk ended at the Fire control bunker of the Longues Battery. This was known as WN48. The fire control bunker is situated on the sea front, a number of casemates still containing guns are located a half mile or so inland. Talk about a kid in a sweet shop, these bunkers were used in the film “The Longest Day”.

I was glad to see Steve in the van. Back to the camp site for shower, food, a brew and copious quantities of beer. With good company, what more could you ask for. Steve and I grabbed a couple of beers that night and walked down to the beach. There is a small bunker there, known as WN28. There are numerous memorials to Canadian Regiments attached to the walls of this bunker. There is also a grim reminder of war embedded in the wall. A small shell, 37mm or 2lb which is still there, embedded in the concrete. Steve and I drank toast to all the soldiers who had suffered on this beach, whether friend or foe.

Day 3

Bayeaux War Cemetery - laying the wreath

Into Bayeux, first thing, we layed a wreath of poppies at the memorial in the Commonwealth War Cemetery. The cemetery was swathed in mist, we laid the wreath at exactly 11am. The peace and quiet in the cemetery was very moving. A few damp eyes among the group and certainly a lump in my throat as Steve recited the Ode to the Fallen. Steve is a standard Bearer for the Royal British Legion.

Bayeaux War Cemetery - our cross of poppies wreath

Set off from the Longues Battery along the coast towards Port en Bessin. Again, a fantastic, but rugged, cliff walk. Steve was there again with a brew when we got into the town. Those contour lines were close together again both in and out of the town!

Port en Bessin - Tim & Liz at the PLUTO memorial

Onwards on the last leg of the journey. The route took us along the coast until the terrain forced us inland. There is a lovely waterfall at the point we turned inland, it is marked on the map as “cascade”. Niagara Falls it isn’t, but it’s still a lovely sight.

The terrain started to visibly change along this part of the coast, from the generally flat beaches in the east to high bluffs in the west, with the odd valley or “draw” as our American friends refer to them. Inland to the good old D514 through Ste Honorine des Pertes.

We stayed on the D514 right up to Colleville sur Mer. At last we had arrived in the American sector. Good old Steve had a brew ready for us at Colleville.

After brief refreshment, we carried on along the D514 to the American Cemetery at St Laurent on the bluffs above Omaha Beach. We carried on along the D514 past Colleville Church to the entrance to the American Cemetery.

Omaha Beach - taken by a local

I have been here several times, but when I saw the rows of crosses, it still had the same impact, another lump in the throat moment. There was a stark contrast between the British and Commonwealth Cemetery at Bayeux and here. Bayeux was so calm, so peaceful, so empty. The American cemetery was full of people, the majority, unfortunately, obviously sightseers unashamedly posing in front of the statue “Spirit of American Youth” having there photograph taken, there arms mimicking the arms of the statue. They were laughing and joking, clearly having a good time. Maybe that’s how they remember, I would like to think so, but I suspect that the cemetery was just on the “to do list”, another souvenir to take home.

All six of us paid our respects by laying a poppy and small wooden cross at the base of the memorial, and observed a minute’s silence. The cemetery is a beautiful place and very well maintained. We continued through the cemetery and on down the bluffs to the beach. Once on the beach, I looked up at the bluffs and wondered how on earth the men who stormed these beaches over 60 years ago did what they did. The climb up those bluffs now is hard going, how did they cope when it was mined and lined with German soldiers, no doubt just as scared but armed to the teeth.

The last leg of the journey. Omaha beach is about three miles in length. 3 miles of flat sandy beach with nowhere to hide. I could see the end of our journey, Vierville sur Mer two and a half miles away. That beach seemed to go on forever.

Omaha Beach - Tim in the sea

We walked past monuments and plaques commemorating the American landings, then we noticed a small, relatively insignificant looking plaque set in the sea wall at Vierville sur Mer dedicated to Operation Aquatint. British Commandos raided this place on 12th September 1942. Almost two years before D Day.

We eventually came to the end of our trek across Normandy, our target was the German bunker at Vierville sur Mer that once housed a 50mm gun, which was known as WN72. For once, we were there before Steve. We decided that we were going to finish as a team. We waited for Steve to arrive and we all touched the concrete of the bunker together.

I had decided that when we finished, I was going to run and jump in the sea. I mentioned it to the others who, apart from Steve, thought I was mad. “It is October” I was reminded. Steve is just as bonkers as I am, he thought jumping into the sea was a great idea.

As soon as we touched the bunker, I just ran as fast as I could down to the beach, across the beach, I ditched my rucksack which had my passport, money and camera in, (I’m not that mad), ran past a family playing badminton who suddenly stopped and watched me, I noticed a smile on their faces and that knowing look that said, “Oh, he must be British!”.

I ran into the sea and just dived under. It was lovely, cold, but lovely. I turned around and to my surprise, I saw the others jumping into the sea after me. The family on the beach were taking photographs and smiling.

The family on the beach were in fact German. We spoke afterwards, they were interested in what we were doing. We exchanged e-mail and they promised to send copies of their photo’s. The man, unfortunately I don’t know his name, explained that his father lost a leg in the war in Russia. We were all united in our condemnation of war.

The following day, we laid a wreath of poppies at the Ranville War Cemetery. I had the honour of actually placing the wreath on this occasion. Lump in the throat and tear in the eye moment!

Ranville War Cemetery - our poppy cross wreath

Ouistreham and Sword Beach
Looking peaceful as we left for home

We have raised over £1,000.00, all of which was handed to the Royal British Legion.

We did this because we are extremely grateful for the sacrifices made by our forefathers who gave their today for our tomorrow. This is our way of saying we will never forget them or what they did.

Tim Burling - November 2007

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